Fearless Traveler: Oahu has lots to do in summer

Q. We're visiting Oahu in Hawaii next summer and would love some hints on snorkeling and hiking, hopefully in remote areas, and on boat tours and fishing day trips. We would like to see the North Shore and the Banzai Pipeline, but we're not sure how gnarly the waves are in summer.

A. Oahu gets a bad rap. Known for crowded Waikiki Beach, fakey luaus, tiny bubbles and worse, it is actually a stunningly beautiful island with lots to do, much of it off the tourist track. Honolulu, the capital, is hip and historic, and a drive along the lush windward coast is a revelation.

There are lots of remote hiking trails on the island, says Rebecca Pang, spokeswoman for the Oahu Visitors Bureau. Check Backyard Oahu (www.backyardoahu.com), Oahu Hiking Trails (www.oahuhikingtrails.com) and the Hawaii State Parks site (www.hawaiistateparks.org/hiking/oahu) for photos and recommendations. The trails to avoid are Diamond Head and Manoa Falls, as they're the most visited.

For really intimate snorkeling and boat charter trips, Wild Side Specialty Tours takes visitors around the island's remote leeward coast in a six-passenger charter. A day cruise includes lunch, gear and instruction, for $159 a person. For details, call 808-306-7273 or see www.sailhawaii.com/snorkel.html. For fishing day trips out of Oahu, Sportfish Hawaii (877-388-1376, www.sportfishhawaii.com) has lots of options, including a Night Shark Hunt for $125 a person. Or try Shack Hawaii (808-479-0020, www.shackhawaiikai.com/fishing.html), a restaurant/charter combo that will take you out on the water, then cook your catch for you. Half-day trips for up to six people cost $700 and include lunch and drinks.

As for the North Shore/Banzai Pipeline, there your luck runs out. The water is calm and glassy in summer. For big-wave action, Pang says, time your visit for November to February. For more information, get in touch with the Oahu Visitors Bureau at 808-524-0722 or www.visit-oahu.com.

Q. My husband and I want to take a trip to Central America this fall and are considering Nicaragua. We want to be off the beaten path, which seems like a good reason to leave Costa Rica off the list. We would like the first half of the trip to be adventurous and cultural, and the other half luxurious and relaxing.

A. Your choice is a good one, as Nicaragua offers all the appeal of its southern neighbor, Costa Rica, but is not yet heavily traveled. In other words, the country "has not been tweaked, packaged and repackaged to meet the perceived desires of the international traveler," says Richard Leonardi, the general manager of Tours Nicaragua (011-505-252-4035, www.toursnicaragua.com), a Managua-based outfitter. But if you plan to travel without a guide, it helps to know some Spanish.

As for adventurous and cultural destinations, Leonardi suggests that you visit the country's colonial cities of Leon and Granada, both founded in the 16th century. "Both cities have fine colonial restorations for lodging," Leonardi says. From those bases, he says, you can climb active volcanoes, kayak in Lake Nicaragua and visit native artisan villages.

For the relaxing half of your trip, Leonardi says, head for San Juan del Sur on the Pacific coast. Lodging includes options such as Piedras y Olas (866-350-0555, www.piedrasyolas.com), a luxury resort overlooking the bay, with lush gardens and infinity pools. Rates start at $140 a night double for a room with a kitchen and private bathroom. For nature lovers, there is Morgan's Rock Hacienda and Ecolodge (011-506-22-32-6449, www.morgansrock.com), a 4,500-acre private reserve. The grounds and beach are home to howler monkeys, sloths, giant sea turtles and a variety of birds native to the subtropical region. Rates for a couple start at $219 a person a night and include three daily meals, local beverages (i.e., beer) and some tours.

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