The phrase "opulent austerity" would seem to be an oxymoron, but devotees of riesling from France's Alsace region will understand that description of the 2007 Hugel Riesling (Alsace, France, $18). At first sip, this is a clean, elegant, bone-dry white wine with distinct mineral nuances. But as it opens up, it reveals the intense citrus and apple fruit underneath. This is quite young for an Alsace riesling, and this wine could develop in fascinating ways over the next three or four years. Its balance and structure are impeccable, and its finish is clean and refreshing. Serve with pork and sauerkraut or seafood.
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